mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67 
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 8:11:31 GMT -9
It's been an ongoing build since I bough the truck in early 2012. I researched different brands and years of trucks for 6 months before I decided I wanted a p pump 12 valve.
This trucks stock 0-60 was also it's 1/4 mile time- 21 seconds to get to 62 mph and it took a 1/4 mile to do it ! The addition of a 100$ set of 4,000 rpm governor springs and some "free mods" put the truck in the high 15s low 16s. Govenenor springs are my favorite thing to install on a stock 12 valve.
My original intentions were to build a work truck/dd that could be competitive with a newer truck with a tuner and get decent mpgs.
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 19:45:39 GMT -9
I also learned how to rebuild a dodge tranny. I figured I would when I was considering owning another dodge. They are very basic and only require a few specialty tools. I wish I had taken more pictures. The 47rh/47re/48re are nearly identical and an easy tranny to learn on. I've done 3 for other people after playing with mine and experimenting with settings. Building myself let the billet parts budget exist due to the money saved on labor. Here are a few pics Pressing the overdrive spring  Little homemade tool for the direct drum  c |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 19:54:38 GMT -9
Oem style rebuild kit from cascade transmission parts.com Exedy brand - all seals, gaskets. 160-180$ and it's holding 400+ whp and countless 15 psi boosted launches and several 25 psi launches all with the lock up switch on.  Here is one similar with the stock clutches, carbon fiber Carbon fiber front band, 4.2 apply lever, hd strut , hd anchor, zero leak servo. I'm also running a 47re planetary instead of an rh do to the re being steel while the rh is aluminum - little budget upgrade.  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 20:05:32 GMT -9
The tranny above is actually my buddies 48re - same upgrades/clutches mine got except he has a sonnax billet input and I'm running a precision industries input . Here's a pic of the upgraded intermediate servo next to the stock piece. I think these are actually a little over kill but they hit hard.  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 20:37:48 GMT -9
Here is the upgraded apply lever for the front band - it's the 4.2 from Patc. It's next to the stock 3.8 it applies 4.2 pounds from every pound that is applied to it. while it applies slightly slower it applies more pressure to the front band than stock.  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 11, 2016 20:47:01 GMT -9
180 pump on left , 160 pump on right . I ran a 13.71 with the 160 pump , no plate, racked barrels, 16.5 degrees timing. The 180 pump has 19 * timing , barrels stock. I primarily went with the 180 pump because these pumps have a better cam inside for higher rpm fueling - easier to fuel over 3k rpms were the 160/175 pumps have a harder time. My truck was falling on its face around 3k rpm due to 16.5 timing and it being a 160 pump. You can get more rpm out of them but it requires much higher timing than I want to run on a daily driver. Plus I bought the donor truck for cheap and it was an easy job swapping pumps. The 160 pump setup also dyno'd 349/789 at underground  |
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Post by Mike Hanzuk on Apr 12, 2016 9:34:03 GMT -9
Awesome progress bud. What's next?
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 12, 2016 11:23:11 GMT -9
These are older pics I still had in my phone. I'll show my budget lift pump setup, traction bars, lockup switch and tps delete wiring. I'll probably take some pics when I disect my afc again, quick rack plug install aka "Mack plug". I don't have any pics of my he351 rebuild and wastegate porting but I have pics of that from my wife's Wrx turbo I rebuilt - pretty much the same thing.
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Post by Brook Green on Apr 13, 2016 18:38:30 GMT -9
More please!
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 13, 2016 18:51:15 GMT -9
Well I'm lazy and this is a link to a turbo I rebuilt in December. Very similar to a wh1c/hx35/he351cw. I did the same porting to my 351 and added a spring gate to it. The turbo in the write up is for the wife's 2014 Wrx that spun a bearing. The turbo has debris in the oil I didn't take any pics when I built the He351cw forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2763002 |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 13, 2016 18:52:15 GMT -9
It's an ihi vf52
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 22, 2016 6:16:59 GMT -9
Here is the tps delete. 3.50$ potentiometer knob, vs 170$ tps.
If I had a new tps is install it for dd duties but the pot switch allows me to fool the ecm into thinking I'm at a given throttle position 100% of the time. This only affects 3/4 shift timing and converter lock up.
At the drag strip my truck would shift into overdrive earlier than I wanted. I could manually shift all the gears if I wanted besides the 3/4 shift.
I turn the dial down the truck will shift into overdrive under 40 mph, if I have it cranked up it will shift into od over 50 mph. This is useful when cruising through town - anyone who's owned a 2nd gen knows he truck will shift in and out of overdrive when cruising through town. I've had a 96 gasser which I would just leave the od off most of the time.
I have forgot to turn the knob up when I'm doing a wot run and had it shift much to early. But other than that I like being able to adjust the 3/4 shift and lock up timing.
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Apr 22, 2016 6:25:32 GMT -9
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Post by Darin Gesin on May 15, 2016 13:07:17 GMT -9
man this thing is gonna be a beast. you bringing it to prowl for power? i cant wait.
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on May 15, 2016 14:50:24 GMT -9
I'll be trying my best to get there. My wife is pregnant and her due date is the end of July. I think I'll be able to sneak up there though  I've been working a lot lately but I'm gathering parts right now and having a new triple disk being built with a little higher stall than my old billet single. I have the fuel for 11s and I might have the air. I just picked this turbo up last week. Industrial injection silver 64 - 64/74/14  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on May 15, 2016 15:00:56 GMT -9
I was going to start a diy tranny build In the diy section but I'll post it in this thread. My Trans had an ongoing pan leak for a couple months now and I forgot to check it after I installed some new 5x.016 injectors. Well the combination of more power and low fluid level killed my Trans quickly. But I already have a new kit from global Transmision parts.com 145$. It is a raybestos high energy kit. Plus I ordered a few extra frictions and steels. ill make sure to take lots of pics. |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on May 15, 2016 15:01:57 GMT -9
I was going to start a diy tranny build In the diy section but I'll post it in this thread. My Trans had an ongoing pan leak for a couple months now and I forgot to check it after I installed some new 5x.016 injectors. Well the combination of more power and low fluid level killed my Trans quickly. But I already have a new kit from global Transmision parts.com 145$. It is a raybestos high energy kit. Plus I ordered a few extra frictions and steels. ill make sure to take lots of pics.  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on May 15, 2016 15:06:34 GMT -9
Pic of the bd billet flexplate- 300$ used.  An old fish tote lid works well for tear down. Contains all the icky burned tranny fluid.  |
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Post by Brook Green on May 18, 2016 17:31:27 GMT -9
What are you going to change to prevent that in the future?
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on May 18, 2016 18:25:45 GMT -9
I fixed the leak right after it started flaring shifts. I waited too long to fix the threads on a couple pan bolt holes that were not sealing the gasket well enough. 30k miles with the way I drive is a pretty decent lifespan. Plus that 351 would be making almost peak torque before the tranny pump was making full line pressure. Now that I have moved up a bit in turbo size that should help out with power vs rpm. The old Tc I was running was 400 rpm lower stall which would make a bunch of heat whenever I would try and build boost for a 4hi launch. Once it would light it would want to slip the tranny or push through the converter - I'm not sure which it was doing. My converter should be done in a few days. I went with a stock stall- 2100 or so . That should help stay on top of the turbo and make spooling from a low speed a non issue . It should flash high enough that it will be able to build boost without being a laggy pig. That stall speed would work for a 66 as well. I cruise at 1900 rpm = 55-60 mph , so even though I'll be below stall the lock up should make having the higher stall not a problem. I'm also adding some extra clutches here and there and upping the line pressure closer to 200 psi instead of the 175 it was earlier. I'll also be running a line pressure gauge with the rest of my gauges so I can keep an eye on the tranny.
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Post by Brook Green on May 19, 2016 15:15:26 GMT -9
Going to a slightly higher stall speed was one of the best things I ever did to my old race truck.
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 2, 2016 12:15:10 GMT -9
Finally got some time off!!! I'm taking plenty of pics. I'll update the thread tonight .
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:05:56 GMT -9
Cleaned front pump and reaction support. The bushing looks good from the last build  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:14:10 GMT -9
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:30:35 GMT -9
Teflon coated pump gears. They were cheap enough at 40$. My old gears had 290k miles  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:32:10 GMT -9
Pump gears must be facing the correct way. Pay attention or better yet- mark them so you know which way they are facing.
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:39:11 GMT -9
If you don't have the inner gear facing the right way the converter won't seat properly and will cause rapid premature wear. Another little trick for installing oil seals- pack the back of them with some Vaseline or assembly grease. It keeps the little springs from popping off. I also loctite the seals in |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:41:14 GMT -9
Oops- double posted that pic ^^^  |
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mike
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by mike on Jul 3, 2016 8:46:45 GMT -9
I have a seal driver kit but this old 9" ford bearing race works well.  |
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