Post by 907jack on Feb 19, 2016 11:38:36 GMT -9
Some of you may be able to use this as a reference. I built this as a planning tool for doing my cooler replacement. Its put together from countless forums and several youtube videos. I'll give credit where its due. I watched SeniorMasterTech and DieselTechRon to get the bulk of the information contained in here. I added what I could from personal experience. I hope that users will be able to download and print it out for use while they are doing the work. I like checklists, they keep you from forgetting the small things. Enjoy and please give any feedback you feel will help the list. Thanks.
2003 6.0 PSD Oil Cooler replacement checklist
[*]1. Drain engine coolant, disconnect batteries
[*]2. Remove front belt shroud deflector-use small pry bar or flat screwdriver to release tabs
[*]3. Remove air filter housing and intake tubes back to turbo
[*]4. Remove hot side charge tube
[*]5. Remove cold side charge tube and intake elbow
[*]6. Release serpentine belt tension and remove belt from alternator and secure from falling
[*]7. Remove alternator wiring and alternator
[*]8. Remove EGR valve
[*]9. Remove degas bottle for ease of moving wiring harness over turbo and access to ficm
[*]10. Reposition wiring harness above firewall and secure
[*]11. Remove fuel line from upper filter housing, place a zip tie below fitting to keep it from sliding down the fuel line
[*]12. Loosen oil filter cap and allow filter to pop up and drain
[*]13. Remove oil feed line to turbo
[*]14. Remove oil filter
[*]15. Remove upper fuel filter and suction remaining fuel
[*]16. Remove oil filter housing
[*]17. Remove oil filter stand pipe
[*]18. Disconnect turbo downpipe, use pry bar to disconnect v-band clamp and position clamp on turbo
[*]19. Disconnect turbo inlet pipe, use pry bar to disconnect v-band clamp and position clamp on up-pipe
[*]20. Remove rear turbo mounting bolt with 6” extension and 10mm socket, then remove front and side mounting bolts
[*]21. Use pry bar to clear downpipe from turbo, use a pry bar between turbo and pedestal to lift turbo for removal
[*]22. Remove turbo oil drain tube and turbo pedestal
[*]23. Reposition main wiring harness for manifold removal
[*]24. Remove injector harness completely, gentle pressure on retaining clips will release the harness
[*]25. Remove EGR cooler exhaust inlet clamp and position on EGR cooler.
[*]26. Disconnect EGR coolant inlet hose
[*]27. Remove two upper fan shroud mounting bolts that secure to intake manifold
[*]28. Remove fuel line mounting bolt
[*]29. MAP sensor hose is disconnected along with heater hose-the pipe can remain attached to the front cover
[*]30. With a pry bar the exhaust downpipe positioned inward to allow access to the rear intake manifold mounting bolts
[*]31. Remove remaining intake manifold mounting bolts and manifold with EGR cooler
[*]32. Clean debris carefully from intake runners and use duct tape to cover openings
[*]33. Clean engine valley paying attention to around oil cooler. Pick, scrape, wipe and/or blow away any debris
[*]34. With catch basin available, remove all oil cooler mounting bolts and remove oil cooler assembly. Have extra rags available.
[*]35. Suction remaining oil from HPOP oil reservoir and wipe clean.
[*]36. Remove strainer screen and clean below. Place clean rag in HPOP drain hole. Cover HPOP oil reservoir with clean rags
[*]37. Suction or blow oil out of all oil cooler bolt holes
[*]38. Good opportunity to power wash inside of intake manifold
[*]39. Good opportunity to disassemble turbo and clean vanes and unison ring, turbo housing
Disassembly of oil cooler for rebuild
[*]1. Remove oil cooler top plate
[*]2. Do not allow EOT or EOP sensors to contact cleaning solvents
[*]3. Use blocks of wood to support cooler housing and allow core to drop out
[*]4. Remove all o-rings paying attention to size and position-there are differences
[*]5. Clear vent passage on top plate with cleaner and compressed air-refer to instructions provided with the new cooler core
Assembly of oil cooler
[*]1. Use a quality lubricant on o-rings for assembly. It takes a bit of force to get the core to seat.
[*]2. Install bolts for cover 16ftlb
[*]3. Install bolts for top cover
[*]4. Install cooler outlet cover, three small bolts 85inlb
[*]5. T45 torx bolts 17ftlbs
Installation of cooler, manifold, turbo
[*]1. Verify HPOP oil reservoir is clean and free of debris, remove rag from HPOP reservoir drain and install new screen
[*]2. Install rebuilt or new oil cooler and torque bolts to 16ftlbs using a crossover sequence
[*]3. Verify intake gasket tabs are facing up and to the inside of the engine valley
[*]4. Install o-ring on front cover
[*]5. Connect wiring harness to IPR and ICP prior to intake manifold install
[*]6. Install intake manifold with EGR cooler if not deleting, be 100% sure the right hand side fuel line is not trapped or crushed under the intake
[*]7. Install all intake bolts hand tight, then torque to 8ftlbs using a front, then back, then middle sequence on each runner
[*]8. Install EGR coolant inlet hose
[*]9. Position EGR cooler to exhaust up-pipe clamp and torque to 48inlb(skip if EGR cooler is deleted)
[*]10. Install turbo pedestal torque to 23ftlb. There was a recall/update to the turbo pedestal. Numbers are stamped on it and you can verify if the update has been done.
[*]11. Install turbo oil drain pipe into HPOP cover with new o-rings and to proper distance (measured in mm). There is an updated tube from Ford if not already done.
[*]12. Install injector wiring harness, gentle pressure on the releases will allow easy connection. Verify all connectors seat completely.
[*]13. Install main wire loom ground strap to rear intake stud
[*]14. Install turbo onto pedestal paying attention to drain tube alignment
[*]15. Turbo mounting bolts torque to 28ftlb
[*]16. Align up-pipe to turbo and position v-band clamp. If joint is difficult to align a ratchet strap can be hooked over the “Y” of the up-pipes to a heat shield stud and run over to the opposite fender. Slowly ratchet the joint into alignment. There really isn’t room for a torque wrench on the v-band clamp. Tighten well.
[*]17. Connect turbo downpipe and clamp. Torque to 80inlb (6.5ftlb) or tighter if desired.
[*]18. Install FICM if it was removed for other work. Listen carefully and feel for the positive “click” of the harness connectors seating into the FICM.
[*]19. Connect ECT sensor
[*]20. Install oil filter stand pipe to oil cooler housing *be sure the stand pipe seal is present*
[*]21. Install oil filter and fuel filter housings. Torque to 11ftlbs.
[*]22. Connect fuel lines to fuel filter housing
[*]23. Install oil feed line to turbo. There is an updated line from Ford for this. The new line does not have a flex joint. It is a solid pipe.
[*]24. Connect oil temp sensor and VGT actuator harness
[*]25. Connect RH fuel supply line to intake manifold mount
[*]26. Route wiring harness and connect engine cooling fan.
[*]27. This is a good point to install a coolant filter if desired. Kits are available.
[*]28. Install mounting bolts for upper fan shroud to intake manifold
[*]29. Install heater hose and MAP sensor vacuum line
[*]30. Install alternator and put belt on, release tensioner
[*]31. Prime oil filter housing/oil cooler with approx. 1qt new oil poured into filter housing and allow to drain down
[*]32. Install new oil and fuel filters
[*]33. Install upper belt shroud
[*]34. Clean and install hot side charge tube
[*]35. Clean and install cold side charge tube and intake manifold elbow
[*]36. Secure over engine wire harness back and install degas bottle
[*]37. Install air filter housing and tubes
[*]38. Complete oil change if desired
[*]39. Change frame mounted fuel filter if desired
[*]40. Mix coolant to desired protection or reuse drained coolant and slowly fill degas bottle to lower fill line
[*]41. Double check area for any remaining items, loose bolts/nuts, clamps/connections, rags/cleaning supplies
[*]42. Reconnect batteries, good time to clean the terminals and connectors
[*]43. Cycle key at least three times listening for frame mounted fuel pump to finish its cycle each time. Good time to check for leaks at upper fuel filter housing and fuel line connections.
[*]44. Run engine to operating temperature checking for leaks at all connections. Top off coolant level as needed.
2003 6.0 PSD Oil Cooler replacement checklist
[*]1. Drain engine coolant, disconnect batteries
[*]2. Remove front belt shroud deflector-use small pry bar or flat screwdriver to release tabs
[*]3. Remove air filter housing and intake tubes back to turbo
[*]4. Remove hot side charge tube
[*]5. Remove cold side charge tube and intake elbow
[*]6. Release serpentine belt tension and remove belt from alternator and secure from falling
[*]7. Remove alternator wiring and alternator
[*]8. Remove EGR valve
[*]9. Remove degas bottle for ease of moving wiring harness over turbo and access to ficm
[*]10. Reposition wiring harness above firewall and secure
[*]11. Remove fuel line from upper filter housing, place a zip tie below fitting to keep it from sliding down the fuel line
[*]12. Loosen oil filter cap and allow filter to pop up and drain
[*]13. Remove oil feed line to turbo
[*]14. Remove oil filter
[*]15. Remove upper fuel filter and suction remaining fuel
[*]16. Remove oil filter housing
[*]17. Remove oil filter stand pipe
[*]18. Disconnect turbo downpipe, use pry bar to disconnect v-band clamp and position clamp on turbo
[*]19. Disconnect turbo inlet pipe, use pry bar to disconnect v-band clamp and position clamp on up-pipe
[*]20. Remove rear turbo mounting bolt with 6” extension and 10mm socket, then remove front and side mounting bolts
[*]21. Use pry bar to clear downpipe from turbo, use a pry bar between turbo and pedestal to lift turbo for removal
[*]22. Remove turbo oil drain tube and turbo pedestal
[*]23. Reposition main wiring harness for manifold removal
[*]24. Remove injector harness completely, gentle pressure on retaining clips will release the harness
[*]25. Remove EGR cooler exhaust inlet clamp and position on EGR cooler.
[*]26. Disconnect EGR coolant inlet hose
[*]27. Remove two upper fan shroud mounting bolts that secure to intake manifold
[*]28. Remove fuel line mounting bolt
[*]29. MAP sensor hose is disconnected along with heater hose-the pipe can remain attached to the front cover
[*]30. With a pry bar the exhaust downpipe positioned inward to allow access to the rear intake manifold mounting bolts
[*]31. Remove remaining intake manifold mounting bolts and manifold with EGR cooler
[*]32. Clean debris carefully from intake runners and use duct tape to cover openings
[*]33. Clean engine valley paying attention to around oil cooler. Pick, scrape, wipe and/or blow away any debris
[*]34. With catch basin available, remove all oil cooler mounting bolts and remove oil cooler assembly. Have extra rags available.
[*]35. Suction remaining oil from HPOP oil reservoir and wipe clean.
[*]36. Remove strainer screen and clean below. Place clean rag in HPOP drain hole. Cover HPOP oil reservoir with clean rags
[*]37. Suction or blow oil out of all oil cooler bolt holes
[*]38. Good opportunity to power wash inside of intake manifold
[*]39. Good opportunity to disassemble turbo and clean vanes and unison ring, turbo housing
Disassembly of oil cooler for rebuild
[*]1. Remove oil cooler top plate
[*]2. Do not allow EOT or EOP sensors to contact cleaning solvents
[*]3. Use blocks of wood to support cooler housing and allow core to drop out
[*]4. Remove all o-rings paying attention to size and position-there are differences
[*]5. Clear vent passage on top plate with cleaner and compressed air-refer to instructions provided with the new cooler core
Assembly of oil cooler
[*]1. Use a quality lubricant on o-rings for assembly. It takes a bit of force to get the core to seat.
[*]2. Install bolts for cover 16ftlb
[*]3. Install bolts for top cover
[*]4. Install cooler outlet cover, three small bolts 85inlb
[*]5. T45 torx bolts 17ftlbs
Installation of cooler, manifold, turbo
[*]1. Verify HPOP oil reservoir is clean and free of debris, remove rag from HPOP reservoir drain and install new screen
[*]2. Install rebuilt or new oil cooler and torque bolts to 16ftlbs using a crossover sequence
[*]3. Verify intake gasket tabs are facing up and to the inside of the engine valley
[*]4. Install o-ring on front cover
[*]5. Connect wiring harness to IPR and ICP prior to intake manifold install
[*]6. Install intake manifold with EGR cooler if not deleting, be 100% sure the right hand side fuel line is not trapped or crushed under the intake
[*]7. Install all intake bolts hand tight, then torque to 8ftlbs using a front, then back, then middle sequence on each runner
[*]8. Install EGR coolant inlet hose
[*]9. Position EGR cooler to exhaust up-pipe clamp and torque to 48inlb(skip if EGR cooler is deleted)
[*]10. Install turbo pedestal torque to 23ftlb. There was a recall/update to the turbo pedestal. Numbers are stamped on it and you can verify if the update has been done.
[*]11. Install turbo oil drain pipe into HPOP cover with new o-rings and to proper distance (measured in mm). There is an updated tube from Ford if not already done.
[*]12. Install injector wiring harness, gentle pressure on the releases will allow easy connection. Verify all connectors seat completely.
[*]13. Install main wire loom ground strap to rear intake stud
[*]14. Install turbo onto pedestal paying attention to drain tube alignment
[*]15. Turbo mounting bolts torque to 28ftlb
[*]16. Align up-pipe to turbo and position v-band clamp. If joint is difficult to align a ratchet strap can be hooked over the “Y” of the up-pipes to a heat shield stud and run over to the opposite fender. Slowly ratchet the joint into alignment. There really isn’t room for a torque wrench on the v-band clamp. Tighten well.
[*]17. Connect turbo downpipe and clamp. Torque to 80inlb (6.5ftlb) or tighter if desired.
[*]18. Install FICM if it was removed for other work. Listen carefully and feel for the positive “click” of the harness connectors seating into the FICM.
[*]19. Connect ECT sensor
[*]20. Install oil filter stand pipe to oil cooler housing *be sure the stand pipe seal is present*
[*]21. Install oil filter and fuel filter housings. Torque to 11ftlbs.
[*]22. Connect fuel lines to fuel filter housing
[*]23. Install oil feed line to turbo. There is an updated line from Ford for this. The new line does not have a flex joint. It is a solid pipe.
[*]24. Connect oil temp sensor and VGT actuator harness
[*]25. Connect RH fuel supply line to intake manifold mount
[*]26. Route wiring harness and connect engine cooling fan.
[*]27. This is a good point to install a coolant filter if desired. Kits are available.
[*]28. Install mounting bolts for upper fan shroud to intake manifold
[*]29. Install heater hose and MAP sensor vacuum line
[*]30. Install alternator and put belt on, release tensioner
[*]31. Prime oil filter housing/oil cooler with approx. 1qt new oil poured into filter housing and allow to drain down
[*]32. Install new oil and fuel filters
[*]33. Install upper belt shroud
[*]34. Clean and install hot side charge tube
[*]35. Clean and install cold side charge tube and intake manifold elbow
[*]36. Secure over engine wire harness back and install degas bottle
[*]37. Install air filter housing and tubes
[*]38. Complete oil change if desired
[*]39. Change frame mounted fuel filter if desired
[*]40. Mix coolant to desired protection or reuse drained coolant and slowly fill degas bottle to lower fill line
[*]41. Double check area for any remaining items, loose bolts/nuts, clamps/connections, rags/cleaning supplies
[*]42. Reconnect batteries, good time to clean the terminals and connectors
[*]43. Cycle key at least three times listening for frame mounted fuel pump to finish its cycle each time. Good time to check for leaks at upper fuel filter housing and fuel line connections.
[*]44. Run engine to operating temperature checking for leaks at all connections. Top off coolant level as needed.
