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Post by Brook Green on Feb 18, 2016 19:14:01 GMT -9
I sold the old crew cab chassis and bought an 02 2wd to convert into a new drag truck, this is the build thread. I'm using the same engine and transmission that I had in the old truck, an 03 5.9 with a Transmission Guy Performance 47re, but I'm ditching the transfer case, and setting the motor back a little bit to help with weight transfer. Attachments:
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Post by Brook Green on Feb 18, 2016 19:19:36 GMT -9
The cage will be built to SFI 25.5C specs but instead of using the standard 1-5/8 tubing I am using 1-3/4 in an effort to make absolutely sure I don't have to re-design the chassis to meet any future spec that is actually designed around a ~4500 lb truck. |
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Post by Brook Green on Feb 18, 2016 19:25:12 GMT -9
Not wanting to risk hitting the wall because of a broken axle I decided to have a www.cachassiworks.com Fab9 built to fit the truck. Its a 3.25" tube, 4130, Avenger, with 1" pinion offset, and 1-3/4" 40 spline gun drilled axles. |
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Post by Brook Green on Feb 18, 2016 19:45:12 GMT -9
I've started working on the back half but progress is slow. |
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Post by AKMark on Feb 25, 2016 10:47:08 GMT -9
Looks sick man.
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Post by Brook Green on Feb 25, 2016 15:45:34 GMT -9
Thank you! I made a little progress late last week, starting to look like a race car now. Attachments:
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excel
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Post by excel on Feb 25, 2016 23:10:21 GMT -9
It's cool
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2016 20:44:35 GMT -9
did u make ur factory bed work or did u give up and order fiberglass
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 5, 2016 20:46:46 GMT -9
I'm still planning on using the factory panels.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2016 20:58:04 GMT -9
nice
i wish i had used my factory panels after all the work . it was kinda pointless for not much weighy savings and all the work involved
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 6, 2016 21:10:17 GMT -9
Its starting to get busy in there. The helmet guard bars are all done, I tied the cross brace into the rear cross member, and preped the small tubes that tie the cab bars to the rear of the chassis. Feels good to finally make some head way.   |
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 12, 2016 20:32:40 GMT -9
Long notch A lot of people have asked if Bend Tech is worth the money, or if it will make them a better fabricator. My answer is yes, and no. Learning the craft without the crutch of a computer is key. But once you have the fundamentals... It's a definite time saver. This fit up (the long one) is not complex, but using Bend Tech to print out a template saved me quite a bit of time. |
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 12, 2016 20:34:13 GMT -9
To this point in the build this was the most difficult joint to fit. (the little off axis tube)  |
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 12, 2016 20:39:48 GMT -9
I normally eyeball, sharpie, grind, for weird joints, or use my Pro Tools tubing notcher for simple single angle notches, but this one was too funky so I used a pipe master to rough it in. Once I got the basic shape laid out with the pipemaster it was just a matter of a dozen or so trial fits and touch up grinding with a soft pack and 4.5" grinder. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2016 21:39:08 GMT -9
looks badass man. a squarewheel is a very handy object to have as well. thats what i use for everything anyways.
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Post by Mike Hanzuk on Mar 12, 2016 22:49:29 GMT -9
This thing is coming out awesome
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 12, 2016 23:35:51 GMT -9
What is a square wheel?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2016 10:19:54 GMT -9
its just a belt sander that u can.change ur wheel size and make anyangle u want on anything. different way of knotching tubeing.   |
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 13, 2016 11:33:17 GMT -9
Ah! That would be sweet!
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 19, 2016 19:12:54 GMT -9
Started working on the roof and windshield bracing today. Lots of tubes that aren't required by the SFI spec, but 1x.049 is so light I don't feel bad about it.  |
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Post by Jeremy May on Mar 20, 2016 4:16:50 GMT -9
You should be safe in there!
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 21, 2016 18:22:25 GMT -9
If I'm not, it wont be for lack of trying! I cut the floor out today. I expect to save at least 30 lbs with its replacement.  |
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Post by Jeremy May on Mar 21, 2016 18:29:05 GMT -9
Race season is right around the corner, it is here at least, is it going to be ready???
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 21, 2016 19:36:00 GMT -9
No Sir, no it is not. I'm still hoping to have it running by Labor Day weekend, but the odds are VERY poor. Likely it will be ready for a test hit in May of 2017. I'm really struggling with "get it done" and "do it right" at the moment. Im ordering front wheels this week, a huge step in the right direction for an early finish.... www.budnik.com/x-series-wheels/lateral-2/Black center with polished rim similar to the rear wheels.  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2016 19:44:34 GMT -9
so the tubs u were talking about and tonneau cover other than asthetics and aerodynamics is there more rules iam missing about tires being exposed or somethin?
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 21, 2016 20:16:51 GMT -9
Other than aero, the only issue is related to street use. If I encounter wet roads or dirt roads, something covering the tires would be prudent. For a track only application, I can't see the need other than Aero and Aesthetics. Rules... none that I know of for the classes we would ever compete in.
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Post by Jeremy May on Mar 22, 2016 4:58:45 GMT -9
Well after reading your 1911 build, and seeing some of your other stuff, you will build it right, and it will be awesome!
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 22, 2016 19:45:20 GMT -9
Cut out the transmission crossmember mounts today and started measuring up for the SFI required X brace that goes between the frame rails. The two orange strings represent drive shaft position at ride height and 6" of axle droop from ride height. (1" more than I'll likely ever run) I'm setting up the chassis to run a maximum 6" diameter drive shaft, and this test reveals the need for a change to the crossmember that joins the bottom of the 4 link brackets.
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 26, 2016 20:19:14 GMT -9
Had a half day to get some work done today. As I get closer to welding out all the joints on the chassis I am taking a little time to practice and verify tube prep and welding technique. This piece of 1.75x.095 wasn't beveled to a point like I would normally do, which was fine for most of the joint, but at the point in the attached picture you can see clearly that I did not get full penetration. Torch angle and lowering travel speed would probably help, but I will continue to bevel to a point for all tubes to ensure this does not happen on the chassis.  |
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Post by Brook Green on Mar 26, 2016 20:22:39 GMT -9
Welded a bunch of tabs between the cage and cab then cut out the rest of the floor and most of the firewall. I estimate at this point a 50 lb weight savings once I install a fabricated floor. Now I will either weld a temporary sub frame to the body and lift it off for final chassis welding, or do as originally planned, grind out a bunch of tack welds and drop the cage. Lifting the cab seems like a much better idea at this time. I also cut out the inner rocker panel, this truck had a three piece rocker box, so I'll leave the outer two and install the SFI required rocker bar, then weld the body to the bar. Nice rust eh! |
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